ASHBY INN (2.5 stars)
He turns beets into a runny red hummus, stages chicken so the pieces look like totems amid their succotash, and gives such a twist to his green tea poundcake that the dessert suggests a rope. Tarver King, the chef at one of my favorite country destinations, could never be accused of underthinking things. Sometimes, I wish he?d take a chill pill and serve his flavorsome food in more recognizable guises; the heirloom tomato salad resembles a debris field the way it?s strewn across the plate. Still, I appreciate his penchant for weaving sweet and sour in his recipes, and his employer?s enthusiasm for grape juice; sommelier and co-owner Neal Wavra is a fontof wine facts. Each of the four small dining rooms has its charms; my favorite is booth-lined and pumpkin-colored, with alluring landscapes by local artists. As we drove away from the carefully tended property recently, we spotted groundhogs, goats, cows, fawns, even an emu, nearby: dinner with a Disney chaser! // 692 Federal St., Paris, Va.; 540-592-3900. www.ashbyinn.com. Open: Lunch Wednesday through Saturday, dinner Wednesday through Sunday, Sunday brunch. All major credit cards. Prices: Lunch $11 to $16, dinner $11 to $34, brunch $45. Sound check: 62 decibels.
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